September 21-27, 2020. This is the first week that I didn’t have to rush every morning to get to Alliance Française for my daily four-hour language classes. I had intentionally not enrolled in the last week of the B1-level program because I wanted at least a week for some rest before my LL.M. (Master of Laws) international arbitration program commenced.
To make most of the free time, I had previously decided to take a leisure trip. The original destination I had in mind was Hamburg, to visit a good friend. But a month or so ago, Germany introduced stricter measures for all persons entering from France, which meant it was too cumbersome to make a visit. I would have had to isolate myself for two weeks upon arriving and that would have been too much trouble. Also, of course, if I only had a week to spare, there wouldn’t have been enough time to complete the two-week quarantine.
Thus, I decided to go somewhere within France instead, where there were no travel restrictions. Some weeks ago, the French domestic train network went on promotion to sell tickets at a bargain. Tickets were selling for as low as 10 euros one-way to select destinations. I was able to book roundtrip train tickets to Marseille and Rennes.
But before I get to that, let me tell you about my trip to the prefecture (administrative / police office) at the beginning of the week to submit my foreign resident visa requirements and finally being granted a “récépissé” or preliminary resident permit.
Finally getting my récépissé. I have probably recounted before that getting a rendez-vous (appointment) with the prefecture, which is the office that handles the renewal of resident visas for foreigners in France, was such a pain. Well, first you have to know that because of the pandemic, you can’t just show up at the prefecture without booking an appointment. Next, you have to know that booking an appointment at the prefecture’s website is such a game of luck. The slots only open on Mondays at around 9AM. I say “around” because it’s not precise. You just have to keep refreshing the webpage starting at 9AM until the slots appear and then fill up the forms as fast as you can, before the very few slots available run out. To cut the long story short, I was able to book a rendez-vous two weeks ago, scheduled for this Monday, September 21. By this date, my existing resident visa had already expired. But I was told I need not worry because holders of recently expired resident visas are given consideration because of the pandemic.
The prefecture in charge of handling applications from my place of residence is located in Antony, a suburb around 12 kilometers from the center of Paris, or around an hour by train from my place in Boulogne.
I had previously encountered an irritable female officer to handle my request the last time I had an appointment three weeks ago who quite literally just told me to go away and book another appointment because my documents were not in order. I had hoped I would not encounter her again but behold me, there she was.
I faced the challenge head on. As usual, she was in an unpleasant disposition and refused to show any sign of consideration even if I was clearly struggling with communicating. She spoke fast French all throughout but thanks to weeks of French classes, I knew better (but not perfectly) how to respond to her questions and demands. I wonder how non-French speakers have to deal with this unpleasant French bureaucracy! Anyway, after a few minutes of checking my documents, she finally provided me a récépissé or a temporary resident visa that would allow me to stay in France while they prepare my carte de séjour or foreign resident identification card.
I was so relieved upon receiving the resident visa. Because it was a very pleasant day, I took a walk inside the vast Parc Sceaux which was just nearby. I didn’t realize how beautiful the park was. I spent a little more than an hour just sitting under the shade of a tree reading a book (in French, as a means of practicing my reading comprehension). I also took a stroll around the quaint town center of Sceaux until later in the afternoon. I did some groceries, too, because I had thought of trying to make fried rice and other meals for the next few days.
The level of pre-departure anxiety I am feeling at the moment surpasses the anxiety I felt when I was first about to leave for Paris for my first year of graduate studies. Surely, the second time shouldn’t come off as uneasy as the first? But, hell, now it does. Maybe because I now know how lonely and difficult it can get, I now know how cold, literally and figuratively, it could be. Most importantly, I am leaving at a time of great uncertainty for everyone with regard to the situation of the pandemic, especially for loved ones who I will be leaving in the Philippines, compounded with the political situation that many friends and colleagues will be facing. Everyone will staying home to weather the storm, why am I leaving?
[07 Oct 19] Normal class day. Things are becoming more routine. I don’t like to lose that feeling of awe every time I walk the streets of this city. I hope the magical feeling of waking to a dream come true stays longer. When I walk the streets of the city I still can’t believe I’m here.
[08 Oct 19] I wish my eyes were a camera, so I could easily take snapshots of everything (and everyone) that I see–without the discomfort of having to raise my phone or camera in front of people. I wish I could store everything I see in a photo or in a video, and keep all these memories forever.
This experience still feels like a dream come true. The things I see now had only been matters of my imagination, as I’ve seen them in countless films, photos, videos. Now I’m right in it.
[09 Oct 19] First exam of the LL.M. program done! Took a snapshot of my desk before starting. We were allowed to refer to our ‘codal’–European Union treaties. Some of my classmates probably had an easier time since half of them are EU citizens. Night out with some of them after the exam!
[10 Oct 19] Our French language professor forbids any English word in class as a policy and discusses everything in French. I feel like drowning, really, like being thrown in the ocean, me gasping for air (words) and catching my breath, with no choice but to (learn to) swim. And swim I will! French class was my only class for the day. The rest of the day stayed at the apartment.
[11 Oct 19] I met up with my frat brod Yael to hang out and explore some parts of the city. I will write another entry on this day!
[12 Oct 19] It was a slow weekend. Stayed most of the time at the apartment, heading out to La Défense for a while. In this photo I took, a young boy looks out to the Grande Arche de La Défense as the metro approaches France’s main financial district. The Grande Arche stands directly opposite the Arc de Triomphe. A giant graffiti that proclaims “We support Hong Kong!” greets commuters at the tunnel.
[13 Oct 19] Almost half of the Sunday parishioners of this Catholic chuch in central Paris are Filipinos. After mass, many would swarm around ambulant vendors selling Filipino food items from chicharon to turon, sometimes even some ulam. This Sunday we went to the Filipino store to have lunch. After lunch I walked across the Seine to the gym.
[30 Sep 19] We had French language assessment exam today and I’m laughing now at how I did my essay. The topic was the protection of children in armed conflict–and I’m like how am I gonna write this in French?? I just French-ed a lot of English words — société! éducation! service médicale!
[01 Oct 19] In the morning, I attended the foreign students introduction with university officials at Université Paris 2 (Assas). I’m struggling with my French. All speeches were in French. Sink or swim, and swim I will.
[02 Oct 19] Backed out from an 11pm-5am college party coz I was like, what? It just starts at 11pm (on a Wednesday night at that)? I didn’t have class today so I had the whole day to do errands, walk around the neighborhood in Surenes, and take a stroll at La Défense two tram stations away. I took some photos while I was at the Place de la Défense at sunset.
[03 Oct 19] There was a recruitment fair at the university today, and I was contemplating on signing up for something. But I hesitated, and kind of regret it now. Also, apparently Thursday night-outs are a thing among many university students. (And I was like, wasn’t there a party the night before?) I ended up going out with some new friends–fellow Filipino scholars in France who were visiting Paris. We had dinner and some drinks at a bar near Montparnasse.
[05 Oct 19] Despite it being a Saturday, I spent the entire afternoon at the Cujas library to do some school work. I really love staying in the library because I can feast my eyes on so many wonderful… books and readings in one big chamber. Ugh. Lord, am I in heaven.
Later that evening, I joined my Filipino housemates along Rue de Rivoli to watch the one of the weirdest parades I’ve seen. It’s the Blanche Nuit parade in Paris. There were Scottish men with bagpipes, a floating snake, mariachi bands, an Illuminati hand, a float w naked tattooed men and women, robots, then–a parade float spewing out fresh cotton candy?! Di ko nagets yung theme.
Later on that evening we had good authentic pizza nearby.
[06 Oct 19] It was the day of the Philippine Food Festival in Paris. It was such a hit, you’d wonder why there’s barely any Filipino restaurants in the city. The venue was packed to the brim and the lines extended for half a kilometer, I think? Kare-kare was gone by the first hour. Since it was the first event of its kind, the organizers and volunteers seemed to have been extremely overwhelmed and was severely understaffed. I invited some LLM classmates who came and enjoyed some food, but I was a bit embarrassed because of the inconveniences of queuing up for so long and then there weren’t a lot of food choices left once we got in.
September 23 – 25, 2019. This was an interesting week, the first half of which was spent going to class, going out with my classmates, and going on my first date in the city. As I am publishing this post-facto, I shall rely on the almost real time tweets that I had posted.
[23 Sep 19] Had my first class report/presentation today. Then headed to Montparnasse for the rest of the night. Ok fine, it was a Tinder date. My first in Paris. Ended up sleeping over and going home the next morning.
[24 Sep 19] The closest I could get to kanin and ulam near the apartment is a neighborhood ‘turo-turo’ which serves decent Chinese food by the gram. Every morsel of umami counts (and in this case, costs).
[25 Sep 19] Our professor moving two sessions to one day meant a whole day in the classroom but also a long weekend–starting now! Booked the (one of the) cheapest bus rides out of France for tomorrow.
After class, my classmates and I went out for beers in one of the bars near school. Since it was after class at around 6 in the evening, we were the first customers. We ended up staying a few hours before heading out for dinner–at a Japanese restaurant for ramen, upon the suggestion of who else but out Japanese classmate.
The rest of the week I spent in Amsterdam, for which I shall dedicate separate blog entries for.
September 16 – 22, 2019. The second week of LLM classes was spent familiarizing myself further with Panthéon and its surroundings, as this is where the school library is located, hanging out with my classmates, going out with them to my first live concert in the city, and enjoying the last days of summer in this part of the world. I recall these events through the series of tweets I had posted.
[16 Sep 19] It was an unusually warm day, just when we all thought summer was about to end. The thing is, air-conditioning is rare in this part of the world. The bank was non-AC, the trains and buses were non-AC, our classroom was non-AC. Torture during hot summer days.
[17 Sep 19] Library orientation at Cujas Library in Sorbonne. Spent the rest of the afternoon in group study with some classmates, which was an excuse to while away time until happy hour really.
[18 Sep 19] I had a two-hour break in between classes so I decided to go to La Défense, the main financial district of Paris during lunch break, to run essential errands as I begin my life here–open a bank account and sign up for the gym! Here at the steps of La Grande Arche (a gigantic modern building that mimics the Arc de Triomphe) hundreds of office workers take their lunch.
[19 Sep 19] First time to catch the Metro on peak rush hour on one of its busiest and older routes. No lines, just walk and push yourself through as politely as you can. We were elbow to elbow I couldn’t even wipe the sweat off my face–the train was non-AC.
[20 Sep 19] Spent the first of many library days studying at the Cujas library, with two of my German classmates. Had take out lunch at the main Panthéon plaza where most of Sorbonne hang out for lunch break.
[21 Sep 19] My LLM classmates and I went to see Amber Run. It’s my first live concert in Paris! We went out for drinks afterwards.
[22 Sep 19] Last Sunday the Catholic church near the Arc de Triomphe that holds English-language mass held a food festival of the countries represented by its parishioners. The Filipinos had the largest table. It was comforting to have tasted palabok again.